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December 18, 2004
Hoi Ann - A Beautiful Love Affair
Since departing from India in late October, I have been trying to determine the purpose of my travel for the second leg of this journey. Bored with the thought of simply being a tourist participating in the guidebook prescribed activities throughout South East Asia, I assume the deeper work I am meant to do involves bringing the mindfulness I have cultivated while in semi-isolation in India, into a more regular life routine.
Up until now there has not been much to write about. Thailand was clean and easy as compared to India, providing for one week of fun and leisure at the beach in Khao Lak and another week or so of massages, cooking classes and shopping in Bangkok. A long and torturous bus ride from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia brought me to the splendors of Angkor Watt. The buildings were impressive, once you fought passed the crowds to see the intricacy of the carving work. Even more remarkable was the way in which nature, for once, was not stopped by man's handiwork, growing thick and strong, up, over and through the immense buildings, shadowing the stone sculptures with the splendor of tree roots taking back their home. The people of Cambodia also filled my heart with warm memories, always offering much physical affection and joyous smiles.
After a few weeks in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh I headed overland to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam. Restaurants playing tunes by the Beatles and the Beach Boys and museum exhibitions revealing the crimes against humanity that were committed during the Vietnam War, Saigon seemed to present an easy blend of warm nostalgia and historical documentation of the horrors of the days when "Charlie" had a heavy presence there. I departed Saigon a few days after I arrived, headed to the beaches of Mui Ne. Not much to speak of there other than the company of a charming young man from Canada and a skinny dip in the ocean after everyone else had retired to sleep for the evening. Dalat, a hill station a few hours north of Saigon, was memorable mostly for its cold weather and the brilliant nuns at the Truc Lam Thien Vien Pagoda where I was invited to practice meditation, eat and receive Buhhdist teachings.
Convinced that Vietnam was going to be somewhat of a disappointment, I began making plans to hustle through the next few towns and make my way to Laos. Then I arrived in Hoi Ann.
Lazy lanes and maze like alleyways guided me through this picturesque town of yellow-washed building and dark wood carved doors and windows. Each street has a charm all its own, filled with art galleries, cafe's and boutiques. The people lack the aggressive edge I have noticed in other parts of southern Vietnam, still hawking their goods and services but with an air of indifference to whether you buy or not.
It is amazing that no matter how many times I have seen the local women walk or cycle by with their traditional cone hats shading their skin from the sun, it is still a mesmerizing sight. Riding my bike out to the beach each afternoon, just a few kilometers away, was a welcomed way to watch the days fade into evening.
Hoi Ann is perhaps my favorite town from this entire trip, possibly of all the cities and towns I have ever visited. They ooze of romance, charm and down to earth elegance. I leave tomorrow for a 12-hour bus journey to Laos, and for the first time I am sad to be departing, feeling I did not get enough of Hoi Ann. Or perhaps it was that charming boy from the beach of Mui Ne that I did not get enough of.
We crossed paths again in Dalat, spending a fun afternoon hiking and riding a motorbike through the green hills. Every minute of time with him has been pure joy, although rushed as we both have had tight travel agendas, trying to adhere to our previous plans with our respective travel mates to see as much of Vietnam as possible with the one month visa we have been provided with.
Catching up again in Hoi Ann seemed to bring a slower pace, and an ability to appreciate the quality rather than the quantity of time we were spending together. For over 48 hours we were essentially inseparable, walking hand in hand, sharing stories and bowls of sorbet, constantly gazing into each other's eyes, and stealing kisses whenever privacy permitted such affection.
Like the cycle of life, this romantic interlude too must come to an end. Ryan departed early this afternoon en route to northern Vietnam and I leave tomorrow for Laos. As I spent my final afternoon in Hoi Ann by my lonesome, I was sad to see the sun set, and my last day here come to a close. Wishing I could freeze this moment, this place, this romance, just as it was, yet knowing that is impossible, I am off to pack my bag and continue on.
Posted by Jyllt at December 18, 2004 11:43 AM